Gjendesheim

Lodging: Hindsæter Hotel

We really loved this hotel, and were glad that we spent a little more for the bigger room option after several nights in really cramped quarters in other hotels (our room even randomly had two bathrooms in it, lol). The hotel has a sauna/hot tub which was very relaxing, and was only a 15 minute drive to the trailhead of the hike we came for.

Activities:

This area is right by Jotunheimen National Park, which I’m sure has many great hikes, but the one we came for was Besseggen.  

Eats

Our hotel offered dinner, which we partook in both nights. It was a 3-course prix fixe, and included things like reindeer tongue and goat, so if you have any dietary preferences, be sure to let them know in advance!

Despite some of the more unusual foods, overall the food here was great and a special traditional experience.


We included Gjendesheim on our itinerary at the recommendation of my Norwegian friend, Lars, who suggested that we might enjoy the Besseggen hike, known for its view at the top of two different colored alpine lakes.

What can I say? I look glamorous when I hike!

Along the way to Gjendesheim, we saw a glimpse of snow, as well as an interesting small art exhibit in the middle of nowhere. We stopped at an unexpected Ethiopian restaurant along the way for some tasty falafel, before checking in to our cozy hotel.

Snow! In August!

An art exhibit along the way! It’s a bear on…trash?

There were several short hiking trails right from the hotel, so we took a short stroll to a beautiful river and small waterfall.

Beautiful rushing river!

That was about all my legs could handle, still recovering from Trolltunga! I loved our stay at Hindsæter Hotel, it’s been a lodge since the 1800s, but has been recently remodeled and is definitely Instagram-ready. Our room included access to their “Mountain Spa” with a hot tub and sauna- very relaxing after a long day of hiking!

Obsessed with the rugs at this hotel

Tasty breakfast spread in the dining room

The main event here was the Besseggen hike which was a real burner! Of the three “big” hikes we did, we felt this was the third most beautiful, and  the most grueling in terms of uphill effort. 

For most people, this is a one-way hike, and the most common way to do it is to park in Gjendesheim, where you take a free shuttle to a boat. The boat drops you off in Memurubu, and then you hike back to Gjendesheim, where you get the free shuttle back to where you parked. There is lodging in Memurubu, so you could also hike to Memurubu, and take the boat back (the same day if you are a fast hiker, or the next day if you are less fast). Boat booking here if you’re planning your own trip.

Our ride to the hike


This hike was relentlessly uphill, and includes a spot where you have to basically rock climb  (in a very beginning kind of way- even with no rock climbing experience, I could do it). Along the way, we were treated to beautiful views of a glacial lake. At the top is where you see the view this hike is best known for: two different colored lakes on either side of a mountain ridge. Wow!

A tale of two hats

Climbing up the ridge!

Double lakes!

The hike back featured hours of us just walking through cloudy mountaintop. It was pretty boring to be honest, but at least it was flat! I’ve never hiked as fast as I did to get back to the parking lot and make the shuttle back to parking. I was ready to relax after this one!

Not impressed by the cloudiness

When I spotted the end of the hike

Almost to the end!

Starving from our day of hiking, we relaxed in the hot top, and were looking forward to dinner at our hotel. When the chef described the menu and it included reindeer tongue and a trio of baby goat, I was less than excited. Luckily for me, I had specified some dietary preferences that excluded these exotic meats, and had some veggies instead…in addition to a deliciously prepared mountain trout. Nick did have the traditional menu, but he will not be ordering these delicacies again.

After a good night’s rest, we were off to our next stop: Åndalsnes!